How To Install Vinyl Flooring Without Removing Baseboards' title='How To Install Vinyl Flooring Without Removing Baseboards' />How to Install Craftsman Trim. Trim components. Cove molding. Window and door casing. Plate rail. In this article, well show you how to cut out and assemble the square edged moldings to make the window and door trim, baseboard, cove and plate rail you see in the photos here. The trim may look complex, but because its built up from multiple pieces, its actually quite easy to install. The 12 in. square moldings that run against the floor and along the edges of the cove bend easily to conform to irregular surfaces and hide gaps. In addition, most of the inside corner pieces simply butt together and dont require miters or bevels. How To Install Vinyl Flooring Without Removing Baseboards' title='How To Install Vinyl Flooring Without Removing Baseboards' />Youll still have to work carefully to get nice fitting joints, but the small size of the individual pieces makes them easier to cut and fit. Assemble the tools and select materials. In addition to basic hand tools, youll need a table saw to rip the thin strips from larger boards and a miter saw to make crisp, clean cuts in the hardwood. Starcraft 2 All In One Loader Windows here. We used a bench top planer to remove saw marks and to reduce the thickness of the 34 in. I thought it would be so much easier to use the peel and stick vinyl flooring to create my backsplash instead of regular wood, so I bought a bunch and headed home to. Beautiful New Floor. How to Install Peel and Stick Vinyl Tile that you can grout Easy on the budget and easy to install a perfect. How To Install Vinyl Flooring Without Removing Baseboards' title='How To Install Vinyl Flooring Without Removing Baseboards' />Photo 2. If you dont own a planer, hire the lumberyard or a local woodworker to plane these pieces for you. We recommend an air powered trim nailer Photo 5, which not only speeds up the work but also makes it much easier to get tight fitting joints. You can rent a nailer and compressor or buy a kit containing both at a fairly low cost. Were using plain sawn red oak for this project rather than the more expensive quarter sawn that was common for Craftsman trim. Its readily available at home centers and most lumberyards. To simplify your planning, all the pieces are either 1x. The key to using plain sawn oak is to select the boards for similar appearance and attractive grain patterns. Straight grained pieces usually look best and should be reserved for prominent locations. Use the less attractive wood for baseboards in areas that will be hidden by furniture. If you have a better selection of wider boards, 1x. Begin by making the moldings. Figure A Trim details. These are the pieces that make up the Craftsman trim. Photo 1 Rip the narrow strips. Rip narrow strips for the cove, base and casing using the setup shown. Leave blade guard in place and use the push block to complete the cut. Photo 2 Plane the strips. Plane the cut edges to remove saw marks. Then plane some of the strips to 12 in. Start the project by measuring the doors, windows and walls of your room and calculate the quantities of each piece of trim youll need. Then rip all the pieces to width on your table saw Figure A and Photo 1. Add 18 in. extra to the width to allow for planing. To rip thin strips safely without removing the blade guard, clamp an extension to your table saw fence and use a custom made push block like the one shown in Photo 1. When all the pieces are ripped, run them through the planer to remove saw blade marks from the edges. Then separate the pieces that need to be reduced to 12 in. Photo 2. Run them through the planer about four or five times, removing no more than 11. Install window and door casing. Photo 3 Install the window stool and apron. Position and predrill the window stool. Then add glue and nail it to the window frame. Snug the 14 apron up under to the stool and nail it in place. Photo 4 Mark the jambs. Mark the jambs to allow a 31. Cut side casings about 12 in. Marking close up. Then mark and cut the top of the casings and tack them in place. Photo 5 Attach the cap and fillet pieces. Measure to the outside edges of the side casings and cut the top casing to this length. Add 1 in. for the cap and fillet and nail these pieces to the top and bottom of the casing. Photo 6 Install the top casing. Center the completed assembly in place over the side casings. Predrill 56. 4 in. Nail along the top of the 14 into the wall framing with 2 12 in. Trim the doors and windows first. Start by making a series of light marks every 1. Photo 4. On windows, install the stool first. We added a stool to a casement crank out window by simply gluing and nailing it to the jamb Photo 3. The stool on double hung windows windows where the sashes slide up and down usually rests on top of the sill. You have to notch the ends to fit against the wall. Measure between the jambs and add 9 38 in. Then center it on the window and glue and nail it to the jamb Photo 3. Its difficult to get the stool and frame perfectly flush. Predrill the stool with a 56. Keep the frame and stool aligned while you drill. Cut the 14 apron 2 in. Center it on the window and snug it up to the bottom of the stool before nailing it to the framing under the window. For a durable, tight fitting trim job, especially when working with 34 in. Use a stud finder to locate the edges of studs and other framing around windows, doors and ceiling edges. When nailing through drywall into the framing, use 2 12 in. If youre hand nailing, predrill the oak with a 56. Mark and cut side casings Photo 4. Be sure to trim the end that rests on the stool for a tight fit before marking the top. Drive 1 12 in. nails every 1. Complete the window by assembling the head jamb and nailing overtop Photo 6. Dont use a power nailer to attach the fillet to the jamb. Instead drill 56. Photo 3. With the exception of the stool, trim out doors just like windows. Install the baseboard. Photo 7 Install the baseboard. Butt the baseboard at inside corners. Adjust for a tight fit by scribing a line and cutting to it. Nail the 14 to the wall studs, the lower cap to the 14 and the cap to the wall. Photo 8 Notch the lower cap. Notch the lower cap to overlap the casing by 1 14 in. Cut the notches a little undersized with a handsaw and file and sand to the lines. Photo 9 Complete the baseboard installation. Hold outside corner pieces in place, mark and miter them. Complete the baseboard by cutting the base shoe and nailing it to the baseboard. The baseboard consists of a 14 with a two piece cap and a square molding base shoe that covers gaps at the floor Figure A. Before you start installing the base, locate the center of the wall studs with a stud finder or other method and mark their locations on the floor mark on the paper used to protect the floor, or use strips of masking tape. Run the first piece of base wall to wall. Then cut square ends on the adjoining pieces and butt them into the first piece. If theres a gap at the butted joint, use a scribing tool Photo 7 to mark the base and then recut it along the scribed line. Miter the base to fit around outside corners. Cut boards a few inches too long and mark in place whenever possible. Then make your cut about 11. Mark, cut and fit both sides of outside corners before nailing either piece to the wall. Nail the 12 in. Use a sharp handsaw to notch the lower cap to overlap door casings Photo 8. This is a highly visible joint, so work for a tight fit. Once again, butt inside corners and miter outside corners. Cut and fit the top cap using the same technique as the 14 base. On floors without carpet, finish the baseboard by installing the square base shoe molding along the floor. Press the molding tight to the floor to cover gaps and nail it to the baseboard with 1 14 in. Install the cove. Photo 1. 0 Install the 1x. Mark the studs, then butt the 1x. Butt and scribe inside corners see Photo 7 and miter outside corners. Photo 1. 1 Install the ceiling boards. Use a pair of 2 ft. Home How To Information.